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Yellow Resin Dye

March 4th, 2012

Hey All,
I have tested a few dyes and have settled on one that
proved most universal. Like many other people have mentioned it here before:

Castin’ Craft dye from Environmental Technologies Inc – eti-usa.com

The only difference is the color – Opaque Yellow.
I have tried the transparent amber, yellow, blue, green.
Also I have tested Opaque red and yellow. The latter proved a good absorber or
the UV/NUV/Blue spectra per volume. It was able to limit the polymerization to a
very predictable depth no matter the exposure time. As per the instructions: use
1oz per 32oz or roughly 29gr per liter and at $6 an oz, it is perfect.I have
tested it with about 80ml of resin and 2-3ml dye and is fantastic, you have seen
the results.

Categories: Resin Tags: , ,
  1. PHenson
    March 5th, 2012 at 06:38 | #1

    Not sure if this blog entry is in direct reply to my previous question from a day or so ago but thanks as it covers the questions on the dye filter agent. I’ll look up the MSDS and other consumer safety data on the products you list and that should disclose enough detail for me about the specific chemistry of the dye compound. Thanks again and keep up the great work.

  2. Rod
    March 5th, 2012 at 12:44 | #2

    Hello, I am near the completion of my 3D Printer. A huge thank-you to yourself and others who have contributed to this site. Its been a tremendous help. Well set out and a lot of in-depth information. I like to plan ahead for every part of my build and now that I’m nearing the testing stage I’m wondering when you indent to inform us of the resin formula you have been using?

    • Printer
      March 6th, 2012 at 16:09 | #3

      Hi Rod, I have informed you where I got the resin from HERE
      If you need resin with a particular properties please Contact Fernando – http://www.spotamaterials.com/

      Glad to be an inspiration to you as others have been an inspiration to me!

  3. Nolo Crutt
    August 10th, 2012 at 07:57 | #4

    “Hello, I am near the completion of my 3D Printer. A huge thank-you to yourself and others who have contributed to this site. Its been a tremendous help. Well set out and a lot of in-depth information. I like to plan ahead for every part of my build and now that I’m nearing the testing stage I’m wondering when you indent to inform us of the resin formula you have been using?”

    I threw that out yesterday

  4. February 4th, 2013 at 22:51 | #6

    Fernando don’t sell spot-ic yet your yellow resin i think is the best bay i try to contact him but hi don’t return mail on time hi send me prices is 70euro thats it

    where to bay resin ???

    i will soon send my printer video or youtube it. wen i bay resin?
    i have only Z up bay 0.005 minimum i want to try it to go only up bay layer 0.025
    i remove x you really don’t need ti only need to not have bubbles in the resin so make pause resin tank to wait it to fill it very simple

    for home use diy printer no need to complicate it with 2 axis 1 is ok

    i test it with oil 40-10 is about 400vsc i can make rings 16mm for 6min very fast i only need fast curing resin the asiga works with 1sek curing i think led projector is better wen i make this dlp i will try dlp_led

    regards

    • Printer
      February 12th, 2013 at 19:23 | #7

      Hi Goldi,
      I’m not using the IC resin. I’m using the general purpose I think.
      You will discover that you need a tilt or other means of moving the VAT hence you might need a second axis. About the Z Axis 0.005 ( 5 micron ) or 0.05 ( 50 micron ) per layer?
      By my calculations you have 320 layers being printed in 360 seconds. The resin can cure in 1 second, but can your Z axis move that fast Up and then Down? If yes, then have you considered the material of the VAT? It the VAT breaks or another catastrophic failure should occur have you taken safeguards as to not ruin the projector?
      The test with oil is not the same as with resin. The solidified resin would have to be separated from the VAT safely and also without so much force as to distort the printed object.

      I have not tried an LED Projector for curing resin, although I have cured resin with an LED FlashLight for repair of the printed part when there is air bubbles.

      Cheers!
      Peter

  5. February 13th, 2013 at 00:59 | #8

    my z axis don’t go down only up by 0.025 and no bubbles
    resin tank is free on weight itself wen z platform go up 0.025 it sticks with the resin tank
    and wait until resin tank depart for increasing all depends speed which resin viscosity i get the speed of the printer and no mistake

    is cool and great

    the code is

    Z axis : increasing by 0.025
    photo

  6. April 29th, 2013 at 19:33 | #9

    Hello Peter!

    I have just gotten into the vat style 3d printing community and was wondering if faster print times were possible using (http://www.ellsworth.com/dow-corning-sylgard-184-silicone-encapsulant-0-5kg-kit-clear/?gclid=CLKRz4bo6bYCFdCY4Aod6iQALQ) for the vat bottom and something super adhesive for the print plate (laser etched acrylic to increase surface area of the bonding).
    Is a continuous exposure print possible? What I mean is that as the z-axis moves up by a set amount, the cross-sectional image projected on the resin changes instantaneously, drawing out a 3D model. I have heated the vat using Refrigeration copper tubing and a heat gun (manually turn the gun on and off to maintain a certain viscosity in the resin). But haven’t purchased the resin yet because I’m still trying to find the best option. Is any of this even possible or am I just wasting my money? And what tips would you give to newbies in the field like me?

    Thank You!
    Abhishek

    • Printer
      May 1st, 2013 at 12:24 | #10

      Hi Abhishek,
      I have not tried Sylgard 184( although I have Generic PDMS ) as a VAT coating. I have poured it onto a glass surface and it seems to be pretty transparent. I tested tearing it and it is fairly easily, but it has strength if clamped at the edges. I have not tried Continuous exposure ( kinda like playing an AVI/MPEG and continuously moving the Z axis ( I recall there was a patent applied for somewhere ). My projector position seems to do a very good job at maintaining a fairly constant temperature of the VAT and the resin.
      It is possible to get samples from your local Dymax distributor or Directly from Dymax.

      Cheers!
      Peter

  7. April 29th, 2013 at 19:36 | #11

    @goldi80
    Hey,

    I am very interested in seeing how your vat 3d printer works, do you have diagrams, videos or images that would excite newbies in the field like me? How are the build times? Is it even worth the headache of fine tuning the printer?

    Best
    Abhishek

    • Printer
      May 1st, 2013 at 12:27 | #12

      Hi Abhishek,
      I have managed to burn the base layers using the Tilt and then continue building the object without moving the VAT – so my initial burn in layers take 5 min and then I get cycle times less than 8 seconds.
      You can fine tune it once you get it printing say @50 micron.

      Cheers!
      Peter

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